Wait...Is That A Camel Running on the Busy Road Wearing a Pink Saddle ?

Driving at dusk on Al Wasl....I was clipping along in my SUV, when I could see ahead of me something running on the side of the road, along side the cars. Whatever it was, appeared to be keeping up with the flow of traffic and carrying something pink on its back.

I sped up - I had to get closer ....could it be what I thought it was?

Yes, it was what I thought it was ! Two very large camels running down Al Wasl, keeping up with the cars. They acted as if they belonged on the road, like they were running in a "camels only lane".
No other drivers seemed phased by these massive animals on the road. They acted like, "oh we see camels everyday running down the side of the road, with cute pink saddles on". Not !!!

Oh no, the light was changing to red at the next big intersection and I could not bear to watch two camels with cute pink camel saddles be hit by cars going the opposite direction. I started to panic, I must do something. I pulled up along side the two camels and rolled down the passenger window . Then I thought - what do I say to a camel on a busy road? How do I make them understand they should get out of the traffic ? The moment was upon me...we turned and looked at each other, I didn't know what to say.

By now the light had turned red, the cars were stopped and the camels stopped. They stopped along side the first cars parked at the light. How did they know to stop on a red light ? Did they go to camel drivers education ? I was perplexed. The two large camels  stood patiently looking straight ahead, as if waiting for the light to change.

The light changed to green, one of the camels turned to the other and made a noise , as if to say, "its green , let's go".With the cars they moved through the intersection, picking up their speed, keeping up with the traffic - two large camels with the cute pink saddles.

Okay, I have to be on candid camera ! Did know one else notice these two large camels, running along side their cars with pink saddles on? I could see a truck with sides coming up behind me. The truck was weaving in and out of traffic, trying to get ahead of all of us, honking for the cars to get out of their way.

When they got along side me, a man hanging out of the passenger window, was shouting in Arabic at the two large camels running down the road. He would shout and make a motion to them with his hand like, "pull over there". The two camels would look over at the man in the truck (and I swear I could see a smirk on their camel faces) - continuing to run and making a disgusting noise back to man as to disagree. The man shouting Arabic and the camels making disgusting noises back to the man went back and forth over and over. Was this man really arguing with the camels and more important do camels understand Arabic ? Were they running away from the man in the truck because he was making them wear pink saddles? Do they hate pink ?

This went on for another mile until I had to turn off Al Wasl. Wow, that was kooky...certainly not something I would ever see in Layton, Utah... two large camels running along a busy road with pink saddles on. I really think I was the only one that noticed the camels and the Arab men chasing them, shouting in Arabic and making hand motions as if the camels would understand .And the camels - more hysterical than I can even portray.

Thanks for topping off a great day ! Gotta love them camels.

**** I hope they made to their camel homes safely.
 

Behind the Gliltz of Dubai

Behind the glitz and glamour of the new city of Dubai are the "old sections" of town. Some of the funnest and most culturally rich areas of the city to explore and visit. These areas of the city ooze with tradition, different languages and personality. I recommend you park your car and explore them on foot. Become part of the activity, the area that you are visiting. In some places it may seem a little sketchy, but no worries, you will be safe.

The older sections of Dubai have names like, Bastakiya, Deira, Satwa, Karama, Shindagha and Bur Dubai.
These areas of the city are pretty, enchanting, dirty, stinky and crowded on any given day, but they are also full of charm, work, life and constant activity. Some of these areas never sleep, infact night time is when streets and shops of Satwa, Karama and Shindagaha come alive.
On the weekends the people from all walks of life, spill out onto the sidewalks and streets, making it hard to not only walk but almost impossible to get your cars down some of the narrow, crowded streets. Driver s and taxi's are incessantly honking their car horns as people meander back and forth across the streets, in and out of  traffic. No one seems to be afraid of being hit by a car. Whats with that? There are worn out bikes being ridden in between moving cars and men pulling wooden hand carts to transport their supplies. It is totally awesome !

I love, love, love this part of Dubai. It is so fun to wander in these sections of the city, strike up a conversation with a shop owner and experience the daily hustle and bustle of middle eastern life. Most the time I feel as if I have entered into a time warp. Men are in their dhotis and dish dashes, women in their abaya's passing through the shops, buying things such as fresh fish, spices and pashmina scarves from open air vendors. It is expected that you will barter with the store keepers on the cost of their wares.They start high, you start low and always carry cash.

Bastakiya, Bur Dubai and Deira sit on either side of the Dubai Creek. It is called a creek, but when I think of a creek, I conjure up in my head a babbling brook. The Dubai Creek is bigger than a babbling brook, much bigger.The creek is a natural seawater inlet that separates the city. A major waterway for Dubai.

 Life along Dubai Creek retains a sense of Dubai's historical past and traditions. But right outside the Creek boundaries the new city of Dubai is growing, expanding. The Creek is alive, it is home to colorful dhows, old Abra's, freighters and expensive yachts.

The Abra water taxi's transport people back and forth across the Creek daily for only a few dirham ( @ 50 cents ) each way. It is cheap, quick and only takes less than 15 minutes to get to the other side.
The Abra taxi's fill up fast and can hold @ 30 people on each trip. They look really old and you may wonder about a few of them and say to yourself, "how does that thing stay afloat". But the Creek would not be the same without them, the Abra water taxi.

Larger freighters or ships bring in cargo everyday and dump their loads on the docks along the Creek. I have never seen such chaos and organization at the same time. The freight is stacked haphazardly,  and contains a little of everything you would imagine... food, furniture, electronics and refrigerators just to mention a few things.

In the picture below we came upon this ship that had just unloaded its cargo. The five fisherman were "hanging out " as they said, on their deck" and begged me to take their picture. When they asked if I wanted to come aboard, I knew it was time to move along down the dock. See ya guys.

Anything you want - you can find in old city Dubai. The oldest buildings and shops can be found here,along with alleys that run everywhere. Count on lots of noise and smells like I had never smelled before. I still say that Dubai has a distinct smell, I liken it to spices and sea water, but in these areas, add dirt and sweat and you will find yourself saying, "what is that smell ? "

Scary restaurants and makeshift food vendors are plentiful. Many of the men selling the food are serving the food bare footed. I have seen their hands up close and wow, they a have dirty hands and clothes. But dirty hands and clothes do not prevent people from  swarming around the food vendors, pushing impatiently to purchase their food items. I watch in awe and horror. "Run for your lives ",  I am thinking. Food poison could be their friend. That may sound a little far fetched but it is not. There is on average one - two people per month mentioned in the Gulf News as dying from food poisoning from one of these vendors. Don't people care that everything is so dirty?  My husband would stop and eat at every single eatery if he could, no  matter how dirty or grimy, but not me. I have come along way living here in the middle east, especially with my willingness to try new foods, but a girl has limits and standards.
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You never know what treasure you will find in these areas of the city, you could stumble on  beautiful Arabic architecture, a burned out ship left rotting in the harbor or a cafe that sells camel burgers. When we came upon the burned out ship, we were intrigued. We jumped out of our car and could not snap enough pictures. What had happened to it? Was it very old? I am certain it has a story. The ship was burned, rotting pieces of wood and large nails, but what a beauty.

As for the camel burger, I will have to pass. It just does not feel right for me to eat a camel. Besides they are so cute !

I don't get to old Dubai enough, but when we do it invigorates me and I look forward to coming back soon to continue exploring, meet fascinating people like I have never met before and observe life in motion.

Fabulous !!!

Six months Already... My Advice for Newbies in Dubai

Six months in Dubai ! Jeff has almost been here one year. Where has the time gone ?

It feels like yesterday that I uprooted, said my goodbye's and traveled 9000 miles across the world stepping into a new adventure like non I have ever experienced before.

I like it here in Dubai....the only thing I don't like is that I am 9000 miles away from my kids, grand kids, extended family and friends. Sometime it is still a little tender, sometimes I ache to be back home around my kids and family. I used to talk with my girls everyday, even if it was just a hello. There were times we would talk multiple times a day, for really no reason at all. Mothers and daughters do those kinds of things. I miss the calls and miss them. Now I understand what my mother is saying about missing the connection, the daily calls.

I have learned to be good at SKYPE, even though the SKYPE in Dubai is only marginally average on a good day ( Everyone in Dubai thinks the two telephone companies scramble skype on occasion).You learn when your family is awake, asleep and when you can catch them at home and say a small prayer that when you can get them on skype you don't sound like a robot.

I was messaging on SKYPE with my youngest daughter today, my morning, her night, telling her about a young woman that was recently married and moved away from her family in Bahrain to live in Dubai, her husbands home land. The young woman expressed to me so tenderly how much she missed her mom, I was touched and cried with cute Eman. My daughter sent back a message after I mentioned the conversation that said, " I miss my mom too". I broke down and cried. I was sitting at a desk at my husbands work sobbing, tears running down my face. When I looked up, another young woman who recently moved to Dubai was sitting across from me, Kait, she was also crying and said, I miss my mom too". We had a good cry together. Moms and daughters. Men don't get it.

Six months in Dubai, I am now considered an old timer. When I arrived six months ago, two amazing women, Cindy and Kinda, took me under their "experienced Dubai wing" and showed me the ropes, gave me good advice that helped me survive. Now it is my turn to assist the new arrivals in Dubai, the newbies, sharing what I have learned and offer the same advice that was given to me two days after I arrived.

1. It takes a little time to settle in here. Don't expect it to happen overnight and to all the other Americans, it will not happen on American speed. Take one day, one month at time and don't get stressed if things take more time than usual, because they will. A familiar saying around here, "Insha Allah" , which means, God Willing. It is used for everything. An example, IE, you move into a new villa and have ordered cable/Internet to be installed. Everyday you call and ask, "when will you be out to install my cable or Internet". What the company will say is , "Insha Allah"  (God willing ) maybe this week or next and hang up. Things take time and sometimes a few dirhams ( money) help get thing done.

2. When you see something need or like in a store - buy it  - all of them ! You may never see it again and that is the truth. Take my word for it.

3. Learn quickly how to use the UAE dirham and ALWAYS carry cash. I cannot emphasize that enough. Many of the services and businesses only take cash and do not take cards.There is little patience for people who fumble around for cash or hold up lines at stores because they don't know how to use the money.

4. Get a cell phone. I thought my IPHONE would work in Dubai but soon learned it was locked and to unlock it would void the warranty. I quickly purchased a small Samsung phone and the cheapest plan available. The UAE does all their business by text or email and you need cell phone to survive in this country.  

5.When you first come to Dubai, bring your GPS and have the maps from the middle east downloaded ready to go. You will need them.
We have used and abused our GAR MIN. There are time I want to throw it out the window, but I especially love when it does not know how to pronounce the words so it spells it. Yes it spells some of the street names. It has even instructed us to "drive across the sandy lot". How does our GAR MIN know it is a sandy lot ? There is so much construction going on in Dubai, roads appear and disappear overnight. The GAR MIN is always confused but not as confused as we are and if it only does one thing, it can get us back home.

6. Get a car and drive. Don't be afraid of the crazy, outrageous driving. Face it head on, go for it and pretty soon you find yourself driving just like everyone else, you become of those kooky Dubai drivers. Dubai is a driving city and you will need transporation to get around. Taxi's are abundant but having your own car makes a big difference - it gives you freedom.

7. Accept Dubai for what it is. Don't try and analyze it, that will just frustrate you more. Things happen in Dubai just because they can. Relax and enjoy your stay.

On Wednesday, I will be helping out two new arrivals, taking them around to the stores that carry American products, the ones that have the best produce, etc, sharing the words of wisdom given to me months ago. I especially like the sisterhood, how you can become instant friends, bonded by a country you came from, a circumstance, a move to a new a country, or just being women. I may not have my family and friends from Utah here with me in Dubai, but many of these people are becoming like family. They care for you and cry with you, understanding how you are feeling when you are in a strange country 9000 miles away. We all get it.

I am so glad that I am not the "newbie" anymore. It has come full circle and it is my turn to help the new arrivals, the "newbies", show them robes and I am ready. Oh and I better bring tissue, sometimes we cry when we talk about home, kids and missing our family.

More to come ...Insha Allah...... 

My what is Showing ?

Restaurant covered in Ramadan lights

The door man at our hotel apartment cheerfully told us tonight..." only 10 more days of fasting and Ramadan is over". Ramadan is flying by so fast. It has been quite the experience to be here and witness Ramadan in full swing.

It is still a challenge to remember not to eat, drink or hold Jeff's hand in public during daytime hours,  but honestly, it has not been as hard as I thought it would be. But that does not mean that you can get sloppy. The local authorities are serious about catching and cracking down on Ramadan offenders of the law.

An friend of mine received a 200 dirham ticket (@ $54.00 USD) ticket for chewing gum in public at the local grocery store last week. The officer handed her the ticket, gave her a stern talk about Ramadan rules, then walked her to the garbage can to have her spit out her gum. She said, "I am 48 and felt like I was 10 all over again".

Another acquaintance received a modesty ticket, the first week of Ramadan, for wearing a t-shirt that showed her nipples. The officer stopped her while she was walking and said, "do you know what is showing ma'am ?" "No what, is showing," she asked. The officer continued, " I can see them". "Them what " she asked ? "Them" he said, as he pointed at her chest, making a circle motion with his hand. She just wanted to hear the officer say the word...nipple, even though she knew exactly what officer was talking about when he said "them".  It was 5:00 in the morning, she was walking her dog at dawn, and failed to slip on her bra. Lesson learned - you have to always remember, someone could  be watching or be offended at any time of the day or night.
The ticket was 100 ($27.00 USD) dirham for each nipple, 200 ($54.00) dirham total.

If you learn one thing from living here, it is ...the majority of us living in this exciting city of Dubai, are visitors. It is their country, their laws and we need to observe them to stay out of trouble and in harmony with the locals. Enough said....
 
Ramadan is festive, fun and as the days go on, there seem to be more and more bright lights popping up all over the city. The people of Dubai are serious about their white, twinkling lights. They put all of us Christmas light lovers to shame. It reminds me of Christmas, but on overload, super steroids. The white twinkly lights hang off , around and on poles, hang on signs, they cover windows, there are strands and strands of lights covering entire homes and businesses, hanging from balconies and lining the roads and highways.




 Even the McDonald's close to our apartment is covered in lights. It is quite a sight to see and makes me so happy.

To see the businesses and restaurants like the one below, it makes you wonder - how do they get inside? The lights cover all the doors and windows. The buildings are encased in shiny lights.


The city of Dubai is all a glow, all lit up at night. A building next to our hotel apartment has so many lights, it is does not get dark at night. After two weeks, all I can think of while trying to go to sleep - please turn out the lights ! Please, please, if only for one hour .

Okay, I wont complain any more... I can endure a few bright lights....only 10 more days.

The last day of Ramadan is August 18, which heralds in a huge three day celebration. It is a National holiday. Workers are excused from work to celebrate. Dubai will be holding one big, massive party and we are all invited to participate, as long as we all behave, play by the rules and keep certain body parts covered. I think I can do just that and have fun at the same time.
Ramadan Kareem !

 

My First Iftar Buffet .....Let's Eat

I experienced my first Iftar buffet on Wednesday night. Jeff and I were invited to be guests of the American Consulate Generals Office of Dubai at their annual Iftar Buffet event held at the luxurious Rotana Hotel ( I could do an entire blog on the bathroom at the Rotana but I dont know if anyone would believe that I am writing about a bathroom....I will say however that it was spectacular and leave it at that, like nothing I have ever seen before).

Tonight was a night of firsts...my first big social event in Dubai and my first Iftar buffet during Ramadan.

Besides the American Consulate General of Dubai, the American Ambassador to the UAE and other dignitaries, local nationals and  people from around the UAE, enjoyed this special evening, together. I loved how were all so different but mingled and enjoy our time together. Even the local newspaper with a photographer in tow showed up for the event and took pictures of the all the guests...including me. Hey, maybe Jeff and I will show up on the Dubai Society page in the local newspaper ! Another first - the society page? !

We hob knobbed, made introductions, shook a lot of hands and waited patiently until the official time came - sun down. I could hardly wait, I was hungry and my stomach kept growling. Tick, tock, tick , tock...the time was going so slow.

The call to prayer sounded, signaling that the fast for Wednesday, August 1, 2012 was over. Yeah, it was time to partake of the feast - the Iftar Buffet. Several of the Muslim's in the room said out loud - it is time, we can eat.

Arab Muslim's traditionally eat dates and drink water to break their fast, then they partake of the their meal. It is said that the dates soothe the stomach, preparing your body for food. I need to note that date palms grow all over the city of Dubai, they are everywhere, very majestic. The date palm is the national tree and the locals love their dates. You can get just about anything you want with dates in it or on it in the United Arab Emirates...date cookies, chocolate covered dates, date cake, date brownies, plain dates, dates with a sugar coating, dates mixed with nuts, date juice, date ice cream, date milk (yep, that is right, date milk), etc. But watch out if you step on one that is over ripe. They stick to your shoe like glue and make a big mess. A date squished on the bottom of your shoe is worse than gum being stuck on the bottom of your shoe. Trust me, I know.

The Iftar buffet was a magnificent spread of Arabic salads, main dishes and desserts. They even served the drink of choice for Ramadan, "Vimto". Vimto is a drink, originally from the United Kingdom, but very popular in the Middle East. It is made from grapes, raspberries and black currants. If spilled it can create quite a stain. I opted for a diet Pepsi - keep them coming and please add a lime.

The buffet was absolutely delicious!

Oh and I caused a small stir, when the glass serving plate that I was getting a date brownie from proceeded to fall to the floor and right on to the tile. Crash, bang ! The room went silent, I could feel all eyes in the room on me, including the squad of small Filipino servers running towards me to help. All I could do was laugh and take a bow. Leave it to me to silence a room.

I thoroughly enjoyed my first Iftar buffet. But wait, this won't be my last one during Ramadan. Jeff and I have been invited to three others in the next two weeks. More fun, food and meeting new people. I do not normally like buffets, in fact I usually avoid them at great lengths, but these buffets are different, they are Iftar buffets and they only come once a year ...during Ramadan!

Ramadan Kareem.